In a move that will send shockwaves across the cosmetics and fragrance industries, the European Commission’s Standing Committee on Cosmetic Products has just passed a proposal to ban three fragrance allergens, atranol, chlorotranol and HICC.

The proposal would require that products containing the allergens be banned from sale four years after the enabling regulation comes into force, with a marketing ban effective two years prior to the ban.

Labelling Not Sufficient

Currently, Annex III of EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 lists 26 allergens which must be listed in the ingredients list on the label or packaging of a product if they are present in concentrations greater than 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

The labelling has not, however, been viewed as sufficient to safeguard the public from the allergens.  The 2011 published opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety issued an opinion on the need to consider prohibitions for certain fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, leading to a European Commission public consultation, concluding in May 2014.  Industry was then left to wait and see if regulatory measures short of an outright prohibition might be acceptable.  They weren’t and Regulation 1223/2009 is set for amendment to enact the ban.

All Chypre and Fougère Scents Impacted

At the heart of the controversy is oakmoss, known to contain both atranol and chlorotranol molecules.  Oakmoss essence is integral to  all chypre and fougère scents for women and men.  The challenge will be to either remove the allergens from the essence or find an alternative which preserves the signature scents used by virtually all companies in the fragrance industry.

The regulatory change does provide sufficient lead time to industry to explore these alternatives, and many will have already begin this process from 2014 if not prior, in light of the long-standing concern over impacts to the susceptible portion of the public.

More Allergen Ingredients Bans to Come?

What may not be manageable, however, is the seemingly exponential growth of identifiable allergenic impacts of product content which will foreseeably spread beyond the existing 26 substances currently listed in the EU Cosmetic Regulation.  The risks from atranol, chlorotranol and HICC may be deemed acute, but they are certainty not unique among the substances subject to labelling obligations.

Further, compliance with the regulatory law alone, as it originates from the EU or elsewhere, won’t be sufficient to protect industry producers from possible claims from a public with innumerable sensitivities.

Author

Jonathan D. Cocker heads Baker McKenzie’s Environmental Practice Group in Canada and is an active member of the firm's Global Consumer Goods & Retail and Energy, Mining and Infrastructure groups. Mr. Cocker provides advice and representation to multinational companies on a variety of environmental and product compliance matters, including extended producer responsibilities, dangerous goods transportation, GHS, regulated wastes, consumer product and food safety, and contaminated lands matters. He assisted in the founding of one of North America’s first Circular Economy Producer Responsibility Organizations and provides advice and representation to a number of domestic and international industry groups in respect of resource recovery obligations. Mr. Cocker was recently appointed the first Sustainability Officer of the International Bar Association Mr. Cocker is a frequent speaker and writer on environmental issues and has authored numerous publications including recent publications in the Environment and Climate Change Law Review, Detritus – the Official Journal of the International Waste Working Group, Chemical Watch, Circular Economy: Global Perspectives published by Springer, and in the upcoming Yale University Journal of Industrial Ecology’s special issue on Material Efficiency for Climate Change Mitigation. Mr. Cocker maintains a blog focused upon international resource recovery issues at environmentlawinsights.com.